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Here in photoshop tutorial, we will show you, how to create funny eyes on face using photoshop. we given simple steps with screenshots with short cut keys. Just follow our stpes to create funny eyes with any image or photo using photoshop.

how to create funny eyes on face using photoshop

Step 1: Open in Photoshop a picture of any animal. I use a black monkey picture in this example.

Step 2: Create a new layer by pressing Ctrl+Shift+N, & rename this layer as “eye1 base”.

Step 3: Select the Eliptical Marquee Tool and draw a circle in the left eye of the monkey while holding SHIFT to get a perfect circle.

Step 4: Now fill the background with any color & press Ctrl+D to deselect it.

Step 5: Right click the “eye1 base” layer and choose Blending Options, use these settings:

Step 6: Create a new layer by pressing Ctrl+Shift+N, & rename this layer as “eye1 color”.

Step 7: Select the Eliptical Marquee Tool again and draw another circle over the last circle a litle smaller while holding SHIFT.

Step 8: Now fill the background with any color & press Ctrl+D to deselect it.

Step 9: Right click the “eye1 base” layer and choose “Copy Layer Style”.

Step 10: Right click the “eye1 color” layer and choose “Paste Layer Style”. We will use almost the same settings.

Step 11: Right click the “eye1 color” layer and choose Blending Options to change the color to blue:

Step 12: Create a new layer, & rename this layer as “eye1 black circle”.

Step 13: As before select the Eliptical Marquee Tool and draw a circle over the last circle a litle smaller. Fill the background with black color.

Step 14: Move the layers as per your satisfaction to get a funny eye effect.

Step 15: Duplicate the 3 layers to make the right eye in the same way and you are finished!

Here’s my original image of Black Monkey:

Here’s my final result:

Thank You!

Here in Photoshop tutorials, we will show, how to change a day photo into a night photo. we given screen shots of every step and with their short cut keys.

how to change a day photo into a night photo

Step 1: Start by opening a day scene image in Photoshop and copy the background layer by pressing Ctrl+J.

Step 2: Go to Image>Adjustments>Desaturate ( Ctrl+Shift+U) to desaturate it.

Step 3: Go to Image>Adjustments>Curves ( Ctrl+M) to open curve window.

Apply settings as shown below.

Step 4: Go to Image>Adjustments> Hue/Saturation (Ctrl+U) to open Hue/Saturation window.

Apply settings as shown below.

Now your image looking like this:

Step 5: Create a new layer. Select Brush Tool, Opacity 15%, Flow 30% & make your Foreground color Black. Then give some black color to clouds and waves.

Step 6: Create a new layer & name it Moon. Create a moon using elliptical Marquee Tool & fill it White.

Step 7: Now dubble click on Moon Layer to go to Blending Options & Add an outer glow using following settings.

Here’s my image. But we want to add some more effect to make it realistic.

Step 8: Select a Lasso Tool (L) & create a random selection over the moon.

Step 9: Go to Select>Modify>Feather (Ctrl+Alt+D) & apply some feather the selection.

Step 10: Create a new layer. Go to Filter>Render>Clouds.

Now set the Blending Mode to “Darken” & reduce the Opacity to 40 px. Press Ctrl+D to Deselect.

Step 11: Add a bird in black color over the moon using custom shape tool.

Here’s my original image to comparison:

And here’s my final image after applying all the steps:

Thank You!

We written photoshop tutorial, create polaroid effect using photoshop. Here we given every step with screen shot and brief explanation of step for photoshop.

photoshop tutorial create polaroid effect using photoshop

Here’s the image that I’ll be working with in this Photoshop tutorial:

And here’s what the image will look like when we’re done:

Step 1: Duplicate The Background Layer

The first thing we need to do for this effect is duplicate our Background layer. With our image open in Photoshop, we can see in the Layers palette that we currently have just one layer, the Background layer, which contains our original image:

To quickly duplicate the layer, use the keyboard shortcut Ctrl+J (Win) / Command+J (Mac). Photoshop creates a copy of the Background layer for us, names it “Layer 1”, and places it above our Background layer in the Layers palette:

Step 2: Add A New Blank Layer Between The Two Layers

Next, we need to add a new blank layer between our Background layer and the copy of it that we just created. Currently the copy is selected in the Layers palette (we can tell the layer is selected because it’s highlighted in blue). Normally when we add a new layer, Photoshop places the new layer above the layer that’s currently selected, but we want our new layer below “Layer 1”, not above it. To tell Photoshop to place the new layer below “Layer 1”, hold down your Ctrl (Win) / Command (Mac) key and then click on the New Layer icon at the bottom of the Layers palette:

Photoshop adds a new blank layer named “Layer 2” between “Layer 1” and the original Background layer:

Step 3: Fill The New Layer With Black

We’re going to use black as the background for our effect, so let’s reset our Foreground and Background colors if needed by pressing D on your keyboard. This sets black as your Foreground color and white as your Background color, as we can see in the Foreground and Background color swatches near the bottom of the Tools palette:

Now with black as our Foreground color and the new blank layer selected in the Layers palette, let’s fill the new layer with black using the keyboard shortcut Alt+Backspace (Win) / Option+Delete (Mac). Nothing will appear to have happened to the image itself, and that’s because “Layer 1”, which contains a copy of our original image, is blocking “Layer 2” from view. But if we look at Layer 2’s thumbnail in the Layers palette, we can see that we’ve filled the layer with black:

Step 4: Add A New Blank Layer

With “Layer 2” (the layer we just filled with black) selected, click once again on the New Layer icon at the bottom of the Layers palette:

Photoshop will add a new blank layer between the black-filled layer and the copy of the original image above it:

Step 5: Drag Out A Rectangular Selection As The Inside Of Your First Polaroid

Select the Rectangular Marquee Tool either from the Tools palette or by pressing M on your keyboard:

Then, with the Rectangular Marquee Tool selected, drag out a selection inside your image which will become the inside of the first polaroid (the part which contains the photo). I’m going to drag my selection around the baby’s face. It doesn’t really matter where you make this selection since you’ll be able to move it anywhere you like later:Then, with the Rectangular Marquee Tool selected, drag out a selection inside your image which will become the inside of the first polaroid (the part which contains the photo). I’m going to drag my selection around the baby. It doesn’t really matter where you make this selection since you’ll be able to move it anywhere you like later:

Step 6: Fill The Selection With Black

We need to fill the selection with black at this point. Technically, it doesn’t matter which color we fill the selection with, but to keep things simple and since black is currently our Foreground color, let’s use black. Make sure you have the new blank layer selected in the Layers palette, and then use the keyboard shortcut Alt+Backspace (Win) / Option+Delete (Mac) to fill the selection with the Foreground color, which is set to black. Again, nothing seems to have happened in the document, and that’s because the image on “Layer 1” at the top is still blocking everything else from view, but if we look at the thumbnail for the blank layer in the Layers palette, we can see that the selected area has indeed been filled with black:

Step 7: Create A Clipping Mask From The Filled Selection

We’re going to use the selection we just filled with black to create what’s called a clipping mask for the layer above it. What this means is that the layer above it, “Layer 1” which contains the copy of our image, is going to be “clipped” by our filled selection on the layer below it. In other words, the only part of the image on “Layer 1” that will remain visible is the part directly above the section filled with black. The rest of the image will become hidden from view. To create our clipping mask, click on “Layer 1” to select it in the Layers palette. Then go up to the Layer menu at the top of the screen and select Create Clipping Mask. You can also use the keyboard shortcut Alt+Ctrl+G (Win) / Option+Command+G (Mac). Either way, Photoshop “clips” the image on “Layer 1”, keeping only the area above the black-filled shape below it visible and hiding the rest of the image, revealing our black background on “Layer 2” in its place:

f we look in the Layers palette now, we can see that “Layer 1” is indented to the right with a small arrow pointing downward on the left. This indicates that the layer is being clipped by the layer below it:

 

Step 8: Add Another New Blank Layer Above “Layer 2”

We need to add another new layer, and we need it between the black-filled layer (“Layer 2”) and the layer containing our filled selection (“Layer 3”). To do that, click on “Layer 2” to select it and then click once again on the New Layer icon at the bottom of the Layers palette:

Photoshop adds the new layer between “Layer 2” and “Layer 3” and names it, surprisingly enough, “Layer 4”:

Step 9: Drag Out Another Rectangular Selection As The Border Of The Polaroid

With your Rectangular Marquee Tool still selected, drag out another rectangular selection, this time around the outside of the original selection, which will become the white border of the polaroid. Keep in mind that polaroid photos have some extra space at the bottom of the border, so add some extra space at the bottom of your selection:

Step 10: Fill The Selection With White

Since the border of a polaroid is usually white, let’s fill our selection with white. Make sure that you have the new blank layer, “Layer 4”, selected in the Layers palette. Then, since white is currently our Background color, let’s use the keyboard shortcut Ctrl+Backspace (Win) / Command+Delete (Mac) to fill the selection with the Background color (white). Press Ctrl+D (Win) / Command+D (Mac) when you’re done to deselect the selection. We now have our first polaroid in our image:

Step 11: Add A Drop Shadow Layer Style

We have our first polaroid, and we’re going to use it to easily create as many polaroids as we want. But before we do anything else, let’s add a slight drop shadow to it. We won’t be able to see the drop shadow just yet, since we’re using a black background, but we will see it once we start piling polaroids on top of each other. To add our drop shadow, with “Layer 4” selected, click on the Layer Styles icon at the bottom of the Layers palette:

Select Drop Shadow from the list of layer styles:

This brings up Photoshop’s “Layer Style” dialog box set to the Drop Shadow options in the middle column. I’m going to set my shadow Angle to about 140° and then lower the Opacity value at the top all the way down to about 50% so my shadow isn’t too intense:

Click OK to exit out of the Layer Style dialog box. As I said, we won’t be able to see the drop shadow just yet thanks to our black background, but don’t worry. We’ll see it soon enough.

Step 12: Rotate The Polaroid

I’m going to rotate my polaroid to add a bit more interest to it. In order to do that, I need to select both layers in my Layers palette which make up my polaroid. I already have “Layer 4” selected, which makes up the outside of it, but I also need “Layer 3” selected, which makes up the inside, so with “Layer 4” selected, I’m going to hold down my Shift key and click on “Layer 3”, which will select both layers at once (they’ll both appear highlighted in blue):

Then with both layers selected, I’m going to bring up Photoshop’s Free Transform handles around my polaroid using the keyboard shortcut Ctrl+T (Win) / Command+T (Mac). To rotate it, all I need to do is drag my mouse cursor anywhere outside of the Free Transform handles. The mouse cursor will change to a “rotate” cursor with curved arrows on either end of it. As I drag my mouse, the polaroid will rotate:

You can also move the polaroid to a new location if you wish by clicking inside of it and dragging it around the screen with your mouse. I’m going to leave mine where it is for now and simply rotate it. As you drag, you’ll notice that the border of the polaroid moves and rotates but the image inside of it does not, and that’s because we’re not moving the actual image. It remains fixed in place. The only thing we’re moving is the polaroid itself, and this is what’s going to allow us to create our final effect, as we’ll see.

When you’re happy with the location and angle of the polaroid , press Enter (Win) / Return (Mac) to apply the transformation.

Step 13: Group All Three Layers Which Make Up The Polaroid

We have our first polaroid created and rotated into place. Now we’re going to use it to create as many polaroids as we want. Before we can do that though, we need to group all three layers which make up the polaroid , which are the top three layers in the Layers palette. “Layer 1” contains the image itself, “Layer 3” contains the inside of the polaroid , and “Layer 4” contains the outside of it. In order to group them, we need them all selected. We already have “Layer 3” and “Layer 4” selected, so once again hold down your Shift key and click on “Layer 1” to add it, so all three layers are selected and highlighted in blue:

Then, with all three layer selected, use the keyboard shortcut Ctrl+G (Win) / Command+G (Mac) to group them. You’ll see all three layers disappear from the Layers palette and be replaced by a layer named “Group 1”, which contains a folder icon to indicate that it’s a Layer Group. If you click on the right-pointing triangle to the left of the folder icon, the group will open and you’ll see your three layers inside of it:

Step 14: Duplicate The Layer Group

We’re going to use this Layer Group to create our second polaroid , and we’re going to do that by duplicating the group. First, click once again on the triangle to the left of the folder in the Layers palette to close the group so your Layers palette doesn’t get too cluttered. Then simply click on the group and drag it down onto the New Layer icon at the bottom of the Layers palette:

When you release your mouse button, you’ll see the copy of the Layer Group appear above the original:

We now have our second polaroid.

Step 15: Move And Rotate The Second Polaroid With The Free Transform Command

Just as we did with the original, we’re going to move and rotate this second polaroid using Free Transform (I didn’t actually move my first one, but you may have, so let’s pretend I did as well). First, twirl open the newly created copy of our Layer Group by clicking on the triangle to the left of its folder icon. Just as before, you’ll see all three layers inside of it which make up the polaroid . We need to select the bottom two layers which make up the inside and outside of it, so click on one, then hold down Shift and click on the other to select them both:

Then with both layers selected, press Ctrl+T (Win) / Command+T (Mac) to bring up the Free Transform handles around the polaroid . At the moment, it looks like there’s only the one polaroid in the image, and that’s because both of them are directly on top of each other. Click inside the polaroid and drag it to move it to a new location, and you’ll see that you do in fact have two. Drag this second one to wherever you like in your document, and then rotate it just as before, by moving your mouse anywhere outside of the Free Transform handles and dragging your mouse to rotate it left or right. You’ll see that once again, we’re only moving the polaroid itself. The image inside of it remains fixed in place, and now that we’ve added a second polaroid , we’re displaying more of the full size image:

You’ll also notice that with the second polaroid overlapping the original, we can now see the drop shadow, which gives the image a bit of depth. When you’re happy with the location and angle of your second polaroid , press Enter (Win) / Return (Mac) to apply the transformation. We now have two polaroids completed:

Step 16: Add, Move And Rotate More Polaroids As Needed

At this point, we just repeat the exact same process over and over until we’ve added enough polaroids to reveal enough of the original image. First, drag the top-most Layer Group down onto the New Layer icon at the bottom of the Layers palette. This will create a copy of the last polaroid you made. Then twirl the new Layer Group open by clicking on the arrow to the left of its folder icon and select the two bottom layers which make up the inside and outside of the polaroid. Press Ctrl+T (Win) / Command+T (Mac) to bring up the Free Transform handles, click inside them and drag the image into a new location to reveal more of the overall image, then move your mouse outside of the handles and drag to rotate the new polaroid. Press Enter (Win) / Return (Mac) to accept the transformation, then repeat the process again until you’ve added enough polaroids that you’re happy with the results. There’s no “right or wrong” placement of the polaroids , so don’t be afraid to play around with it, and you can always go back and move or rotate any of the polaroids at any time by selecting its Layer Group, twirling it open, selecting the two bottom layers, then using Free Transform to move and/or rotate it again.

I’m going to add, move and rotate more polaroids here with my image, and after creating about 16 polaroids, moving and rotating each with the Free Transform command, here is my final result:

And there we have it!

Thank You!

Photoshop tutorial, simple steps changing hair color photoshop. Today I’ll teach you simple steps for changing hair color. we given screenshots with their short cuts and description.

simple steps changing hair color photoshop

For this tutorial choose a good image, I used image of Kate Winslet.

Step 1: Copy the Background layer by pressing Ctrl+J & name it Hair-color.

Step 2: Select a Pen Tool and select all the area of her hair.

Step 3: Go to Paths tab and press Ctrl+left click on the layer work path. And again go to layers tab.

Now you have dotted border of her hair.

Step 4: Now Go to Image>Adjustments>Hue/Saturation & apply the settings which I given below.

Don’t forget to switch on the option of “Colorize” which is the bottom of the right corner in the box.

Steps 5: Press Ctrl+D to deselect hair.

And give a final touchups. Select Eraser Tool with the Flow of 2% & erase some border area to match hair color with original image.

Here’s my original image:

This is the final output.As you can see, there are different color on the hair:

Thank You!

In this tutorial we shown, how to convert photo into shatter effect in Photoshop, we given snaps of every steps. We explained shatter effect usages with photo. We will need close-up image of a nice face, prefably facing front. I’m using one of Winona Ryder wallpapers in this tutorial.

how to convert photo into shatter effect in Photoshop

Step 1: Create a document of size 600×550 pixels.

Fill the Background layer with #000000.

Place the face at the center of the document and use Soft Eraser tool to remove the other unwanted background.

Step 2: Create a new document of size 20×20 pixels and create a new layer. Use Pencil tool with size 1px and color #FFFFFF, draw left and bottom border to form a “L”. Hide the Background layer and click Ctrl+A. Go to Edit > Define Pattern. Name this pattern as Grid.

Step 3: Back to Jessica Alba’s document, create a new layer above the Face. Use the Paint Bucket tool and select to fill with Grid pattern.

Step 4: Remove those grids that cross outside of the face area.

Go to Edit > Transform > Warp.

Distort the grids the way shown in the diagram.

Step 5: Set the opacity of the grid layer to 20%.

Right-click on the grid layer and choose Blending Options.

Activate Outer Glow and set its Blend Mode to Color Dodge, Opacity to 100%, Color to #FFFFFF, Spread to 0 and Size to 5px. Leave the rest of the settings as default.

Now our image looking like this:

Step 6: Create a new layer and name it as Holes.

With Pen tool, path out several square holes according to the face grids.

Go to the Paths tab, Ctrl+left click on the work path layer created.

Back to Layers tab, select the Holes layer and fill the selection with #000000.

Step 7: Ctrl+left click on the Holes layer to load selection.

Select the Face layer and hit Ctrl+X to cut out the pixels. Then press Ctrl+V to paste and then name this new layer as Blocks.

Drag the blocks to the right with Move tool. Go to Edit > Free Transform to reduce the size slightly.

Step 8: Duplicate the Blocks layer. Shift the lower Blocks layer 1 pixel to the left. Repeat this for 10 times and you will get some sort of extruding effect. Merge these 10 layers of duplicated Blocks and name this new merged layer as Sides.

Step 9: Right-click on the Sides layer and choose Blending Options. Activate Gradient Overlay and set Blend Mode to Normal, Opacity to 80%, Gradient from #000000 to #D58761 and Angle to 180. Leave the rest as default.

Step 10: Activate Pattern Overlay and set Blend Mode to Multiply, Opacity to 100% Pattern to Metal Landscape. Leave the rest as default.

Step 11: Right-click on Blocks layer and choose Blending Options. Activate Outer Glow and set Blend Mode to Color Dodge, Opacity to 75%, Color to #FFFFFF and Size to 10px. Leave the rest as default.

Repeat Step 6 to 11 for 2 more times to form more blocks floating towards the right.

Now our image looking like this:

Step 12: Merge all the Holes layers. Right-click on the merged layer and choose Blending Options.

Activate Bevel and Emboss, set the Style to Inner Bevel, Depth to 72%, Size to 5px, Soften to 0px, Angle to 0, Altitude to 50, Highlight Mode to Screen, Highlight Color to #DCA57E, Highlight Opacity to 100%, Shadow Mode to Multiply, Shadow Color to #000000 and Shadow Opacity to 75%. Leave the rest of settings as default.

Step 13: Create a new layer below the Blocks and name it as Smoke. Set the foreground color to #FFFFFF. Load the Reborn brushes downloaded earlier and paint a few smoke of different sizes on this layer.

Right-click on the Smoke layer and choose Blending Options. Activate Outer Glow and set its Blend Mode to Linear Dodge (Add), Opacity to 75%, Color to #FFFFFF, Spread to 0px and Size to 5px. Leave the rest of settings as default.

Step 14: Create a new layer and name it as Dark Blocks.

Using Pen tool, path out few more blocks along the face grid. Fill the shapes with #000000.

Set the Blend Mode of Dark Blocks layer to Soft Light.

Step 16: Create a new layer and name is as Light Blocks.

Similar to Step 6 but this time fill the shapes with #FFFFFF.

Set the Blend Mode of Light Blocks layer to Soft Light

Step 17: Now we need to smooth the face a little. Select the Face layer and go to Filter > Blur > Surface Blur. Set the Radius to 5px and Threshold to 15 levels.

Step 18: Create a new layer and using a large Soft Brush tool with color #000000 and opacity 40%, paint some dark areas on the right to fade the blocks slightly.

And here’s my final image after applying all the steps:

This is another long tutorial and I hope you will like this effect.

Thank You!

In Photoshop tutorial we will teach you to add realistic fire to photo using photoshop. Here we given full steps with screen shots and details instructions,

add realistic fire to photo using photoshop

Step 1: Now I’m going to show you how to add a fire to photo using Adobe Photoshop. We need couple of images,  girl’s image & 2nd image of fire. So I’m starting with these two images:

Step 2: Let’s start with girl image, name it FireGirl and hit OK.

With the “FireGirl” image active, duplicate the “background” layer. Set the foreground and background color to black and white by pressing D on the keyboard. Click the “background” layer again and fill it with the foreground color ~ which is set to black. See the images below.

Step 3: Reactivate “Layer 1,” then press Command + Shift + U to apply desaturate command. Now invert the color by pressing Command + I. Your image should look like a film’s negative now.

Step 4: Duplicate “Layer 1,” then apply the find edges filter from Filter > Stylized > Find Edges. Next, invert the color by pressing Ctrl + I and change the Blending Mode to Hard light. There, your image now has contrast white line and a very dark background.

Step 5: To give the white line more contrast, duplicate the “Layer 1” copy then change the Blending Mode to Screen.

Step 6: Now we move to the second image. Drag image “Fire” into “FireGirl” document image window using the Move tool.

Step 7: The fire image from “Fire” should be in “Layer 2” now. Change its Blending Mode to screen, this will hide all the black colors in “Layer 2.” If done right, your image should be similar to the one below.

Step 8: Duplicate “Layer 2” by pressing Ctrl + J. Make sure you use the Screen Blending mode, same as the original “Layer 2.” Next, make “Layer 2” become invisible by hiding it from the layers panel.

Step 9: Click the “Layer 2 copy” to make it active, then use the Free Transform command ( Edit > Free Transform) to rotate and resize the fire image like shown below. Don’t forget to press Enter when you’re done transforming.

Step 10: Still in the same layer, now use the warp command (Edit > Transform > Warp) to bend the fire image – so it following the hair flow. Press Enter when done. See the example below as a reference.

Step 11: If you feel the result is not quite good enough, simply use the Liquify filter to fix it. I assume you already know how to use the liquify filter; the Forward Warp tool and Twirl Clockwise tool is the only tool I used to get this result (see image below).

Step 12: Duplicate the “Layer 2” copy, then use the Free Transform command to resize and rotate the fire image in the current layer. Don’t forget to reposition the fire image too. Once you get this composition (see image below), hit Enter.

Step 13: Repeat the previous process to get the hair covered with fire. Just duplicate and modify the layer until you get all the hair part covered. If needed, use the Liquify Filter again. The end result of this process should look like the image below, notice how many layers are used.

Step 14: Okay, now activate “Layer 2” and make it visible again. Then Change the Blending Mode to Vivid Light. This step will colorize only the white line in the layer below it.

Step 15: Still in “Layer 2,” apply the Free Transform command to resize and rotate the fire image like shown below. The purpose is to cover up the girl’s body and hair with the fire texture. Press Enter when you’re done transforming.

Step 16: We’re gonna blur the fire image in “Layer 2,” To do so, apply the Gaussian Blur filter from the Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur menu. Fill the Radius around 10 to 15 pixels, then click OK when done. Blurring the fire image will cause its texture to blend smoother with the layer below it.

Step 17: Now add a layer mask to “Layer 2.” Then use a soft round Brush tool with Opacity at 100%. Set the brush size according to your need, then just mask until the fire outside becoming hidden. See the process below.

Step 18:

Now go to the top most layer (mine is: “Layer 2 copy 5”), add two adjustment layers which is Hue/Saturation and Brightness/Contrast. Careful not to change the layer adjustment order, or the color effect will be wrong. Below you can see the setting I used to complete this step, also pay attention to the adjustment layer order.

By adding a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer, we unify all colors. The Brightness/Contrast adjustment layer brings more color contrast and makes sure the image color’s looks like real fire.

Step 19: I’m sure you notice the fire sparks effect. I create it using the Brush tool with this simple setting. No special brush needed, but if you have one that will be useful then feel free to use it. Below you can see all the settings I used within the Brush palette, of course you can change the setting as you like. Just make sure the brush spatter enough and vary the size.

Step 20:

Now to use the modified brush, create a new blank layer below the adjustment layers ( mine is named “Layer 3”). Choose 50% gray from the swatches palette, then you can start creating the fire sparks. Remember not to be monotone, resize the brush size if needed. I start using a big sized brush, then reduce it to smaller size (you can change brush size faster by pressing the bracket keys on the keyboard ).

If you’re not sure how to do this steps, just imagine where and how the fire sparks will flow if it was real fire. For me, imagining stuff is very helpful.

Step 21: To make it more interesting, copy the “Layer 3” by pressing Ctrl+J & set the Blending Mode to “Screen” of Layer 3 copy then reduce the Opacity to 25%.

Now my image is looking like this.

And we done it! Here’s my final image.

Hope you learned something new and had fun.

Thank You!